For most people, holidaying in the Kimberley will involve meticulous planning, a very long drive, and potentially some form of camping. And while that may appeal to outdoorsy and adventurous types, I am not that kinda gal.
Luckily for me, there’s an alternative (and luxurious) way to experience this glorious part of WA.
The Berkeley River Lodge is remote, set on the pristine north-east Kimberley coast, about 150km north-west of Wyndham, and accessible only by air or sea.
Guests are flown in by charter plane from Darwin. I’m collected from Darwin Airport and driven to the ChartAir departure lounge to board the aircraft for the 80-minute flight, out of the Northern Territory and back into Western Australia.
The tiny seven-seater aircraft gracefully takes off into the blue. As it climbs there’s the occasional bump but the pilot looks relaxed, so I try to be too.
Veins of rich turquoise water cut through the green and orange land below. Ribbons of red-dirt tracks snake through the green. Puffs of cotton-wool clouds punctuate the cobalt sky and cast dark green shadows across the landscape beneath us.
Heading west, half an hour in we are over the Timor Sea, its jagged coastline to my left and a vast stretch of aquamarine ocean to the right.
Half an hour later we make land and the pilot treats us to a scenic sweep of the untouched Kimberley coastline and then over the Berkeley River Lodge and its villas, before making his way towards the property’s red-dirt landing strip.
The plane touches down and operations manager Jake Oxenham and general manager Hannah Wark, along with co-owner Rachel Bromage, welcome us with a red carpet and glasses of Bollinger champagne.
Rachel is a woman with a plan — a great many plans, in fact. She is the mastermind behind Berkeley River Lodge’s evolution into the exceptional luxury resort it is today.
I get the feeling the lodge is a labour of love for her. She’s curating a guest experience that she would want herself, and she has impeccable taste. Anything you find that makes the Berkeley that step above is more than likely to have been her idea. And she’s constantly striving to make it even better for her guests.
There’s an added little treat in store prior to arrival for next season’s visitors, but I won’t spoil the surprise here.
She and her staff are a resilient bunch, too. Last November, just as the lodge was nearing completion of an extensive three-year refurbishment, cyclone Fina hit, destroying three of its villas and causing major damage to two others. It’s no mean feat that the resort was ready to open in time for the start of the 2026 season on May 1, thanks to the hard work of Jake, Hannah and their incredible team.
When Fina ripped through, it took the resort’s day spa, and Villa 20.
Rachel solved the spa problem. Every guest receives a massage or facial per stay, but now the spa comes to you. It’s actually an excellent idea. When the therapist finishes my treatment and clears away her gear, all I have to do is throw on a French linen robe and saunter out to the veranda, where I put up my feet and bask in post-massage bliss while enjoying the gentle breeze, trill of birdsong, and Berkeley River views.
And as for Villa 20 — the one with the best view — Rachel has big ideas for that too (but I’m sworn to secrecy).
Luxurious lodgings
Prepare to have your every whim catered for. I’ve stayed in some beautiful places before but it would be hard to top this one. Fifteen villas, set within the coastal dunes, luxuriously appointed, with verandas offering either an ocean or river view. Each surrounded by the sound of silence and the unspoilt Kimberley landscape.
The spacious rooms are beautifully designed, featuring warm timbers, luxurious fabrics, custom-made furniture and king-sized beds. To cope with the hot northern climate, there is air-con and a ceiling fan, as well as louvred windows on either side to take advantage of through-air flow, plus a patio door out to the private veranda. I can recommend opening the louvres and curtains at night. Waking up to the sounds of nature and the colours of the Kimberley is quite something.
The bathroom, including the toilet, is outside. At first I was a little alarmed by this but, by the end of my stay I’m a convert. This is no ordinary outdoor dunny. Again, it’s beautifully designed, with timber flooring and furniture, timber and stone vanity, a rain shower head and a large freestanding stone bath. Sinking into a mineral salt-enriched bath, gazing up at a cloudless blue sky, is a highlight of my stay. The rustle of melaleuca leaves and the chirps of birds are the only things to break the silence.
Don’t worry, there’s a light for night-time calls of nature, and I can report there were no alarming wildlife encounters out there.
Stays at the lodge are all-inclusive, five-day affairs. At first glance it looks expensive, priced at $19,750 per villa. But that includes everything, and you get a lot of bang for your buck.
As well as the aforementioned return charter flight, champagne on arrival and spa treatment, be prepared to be wowed by inventive dining experiences, warm personal service and exciting excursions led by engaging expert guides. And along with the lodge’s 22 staff and 28 other guests, you have this unspoilt corner of the Kimberley all to yourself.
Should you choose, each morning begins with a morning movement session on the pool deck. The gentle program of stretching, yoga and breathwork takes place as the sun rises out of the Timor Sea. It’s a glorious way to start the day.
Discerning dining
Breakfast is served in Dunes Restaurant. There’s no bog-standard boring buffet fruit here. As well as watermelon and rockmelon, there’s perfectly ripe dragon fruit, kiwifruit, raspberries, blueberries, strawberries and grapes. Dainty pots of fruit and yoghurt, homemade granola, freshly baked bread, croissants and pastries complete the continental selection. And you can order from a build-your-own hot menu, as well as a changing special each day. There’s freshly squeezed juice and barista-made coffee too.
The kitchen is led by executive chef Christian Iacovella. Thinking about how remote this place is, and the logistics of getting fresh food there, the quality of the dishes he and his chefs serve is remarkable.
Lunch is served a la carte each day, with a selection of small plates such as calamari, falafel and baby heirloom beetroot salad, and larger dishes including the Berkeley burger, Kimberley club, and Shark Bay crab linguine.
It’s a sophisticated start to the evening. I sip a pre-dinner Bushfire Sour on the Dunes Restaurant veranda, overlooking the chic pool area, enjoying panoramic views of the Timor Sea and Berkeley River mouth. The cocktail menu puts a Berkeley spin on classics, with lemon myrtle, saltbush and homemade wattleseed and rosella syrups joining traditional ingredients.
The restaurant staff are delightful, expertly led by Tom, and with a special mention for Emily and Isabella, whose attention to detail and warm hospitality make this such a memorable visit.
Dinners are a real treat, ranging from the Down to Earth five-course degustation paired with Howard Park wines, and the three-course Nonna Approved Italian feast (again with paired wines), to another stroke of genius from Rachel Bromage — the Barefoot Barbecue.
Our group is lucky enough to be the first to test out this experience, which will be new for guests in 2027. Sitting in the resort’s sunset viewing area — beneath fairy lights and with our bare feet in the sand — we drink freshly made cocktails and eat barbecued canapes as the sun sinks and the pale blue sky turns burnished orange.
Christian and his team cook rib eye steak over fire, which he slices at the table and serves alongside grilled vegetables with romesco sauce and radicchio salad. Dining under the star-scattered night sky is a special final evening.
Out and about
The excursions are pretty special too. The Casuarina hike is a four-hour journey which starts in a 4WD safari vehicle, down through the sand dunes. Then it’s on to the boat for a scenic trip along the Berkeley River and my first up-close look at this spectacular, rugged landscape where rust-tinged sandstone cliffs are sandwiched between vibrant blue sky and emerald green water.
The start of the hike is challenging as we scramble up a rocky escarpment. The hike does require a reasonable level of fitness and mobility as some of the path is rough under foot. Guests who are not keen to do this excursion will have the option of an alternative activity, or lounging by the resort’s pool for a morning wouldn’t be a hardship.
Knowledgeable and enthusiastic guides Josh and Reagan lead us on a fascinating 4km loop, pointing out 1.8 billion-year-old rock formations, native flora and fauna, natural plunge pools and ancient Aboriginal rock art. And then it’s back to the rocky escarpment and a ginger descent before the boat takes us back to the lodge in time for lunch.
Later that day we are back in the safari vehicles for a sundowner beach drive. We traverse the coastline, spotting crocodile, crab and turtle tracks, while learning about bush tucker and the dune systems, surrounded by spectacular scenery. We are dropped off for a short stroll back along the beach while Josh and Reagan stop further ahead to set up drinks and nibbles in the shade of a cluster of pandanus trees. It’s a lovely spot to enjoy the sky’s pastel tones as day makes its way to night with another sensational sunset.
The following day we climb aboard purpose-built fishing boat Kingfisher for a morning of fishing with Robbo. I haven’t fished before and have low expectations of how much I’ll enjoy this, but it turns out to be a fun excursion. As we approach the end of the dry season, the weather is heating up and it’s lovely to be out on the water, wind blowing through your hair and taking in more of this dramatic scenery.
I don’t manage to hook anything, but several of our group reel in a few decent-sized fish (not to mention a 2m nurse shark, but thankfully that is released and doesn’t make the journey back with us).
Before we return to the lodge, Robbo cruises up the river mouth, past avenues of boab trees and towering rocks to Casuarina Falls. He nudges the boat against the rock face and we climb on to the rocks and cool off under the waterfall. We are soaked but are blow-dried in the wind on the journey home.
Our catch has been expertly filleted on the boat by Robbo, and back at the restaurant, Christian cooks it for lunch. Fingermark and scarlet sea perch fresh from the sea, sauteed in butter and capers, served with chips and salad — a delicious end to a rewarding morning.
I’m here as part of a media group and our visit has been truncated into three days. In addition to the excursions above, guests on the full five-day experience will also have a wilderness bush drive, with the promise of birdlife, a 200-year-old boab tree, drinks and nibbles under an emu apple tree, and a swim in the majestic Kapok Pools; as well as a half-day cruise through the 20km Berkeley River system. Having had a taste of the scenery on the river, I’m sure this will be a highlight of the stay.
Before I go to bed on my final evening, I run myself a bath and luxuriate under the stars one last time.
I don’t think I’ve ever been this reluctant to go home. I’ve fallen in love with the Kimberley, and paired with a stay at the Berkeley River Lodge, it’s as good as it gets.
Leyanne Baillie was a guest of Berkeley River Lodge. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication.
fact file
Next year the Berkeley River Lodge’s season runs from May 1-August 31. Bookings made before October 31, 2026 will receive $2000 off the cost of a villa. berkeleyriverlodge.com.au
This really is an all-inclusive experience, with all meals, premium drinks, excursions and lodge activities included. Villas also feature a new Fieldbar Drinks Box, which can be filled with drinks from the resort’s bar and native-inspired treats from the Kimberley Pantry in the main lodge. Optional scenic helicopter tours are offered with Truenorth Helicopters. truenorthhelicopters.com.au/berkeley
Flights from Perth arrive in Darwin too late to connect with Chartair’s 3pm charter flight, so guests will have to overnight in the Northern Territory capital the day before a stay at Berkeley River Lodge.
Another option is a quick stop at one of the airport hotels. The Novotel Hotels & Resorts complex consists of a Novotel, a Mercure and an Ibis hotel. All three share facilities and there’s a lovely pool area, plus a couple of dining options. The hotel complex is a five-minute walk from the airport terminal. darwinairportresorts.com.au
Due to space constraints onboard ChartAir aircraft, there’s a 10kg soft-bag luggage restriction per guest. This isn’t as difficult as it sounds. The dress code is casual. I brought mix-and-match linen items and a couple of resort-style outfits for evening wear, plus swimwear, comfortable walking shoes and flat sandals. Sunscreen and insect repellent are available if required (mosquitoes aren’t much of a problem in the dry season, I’m told). There is a complimentary laundry service should you run out of clothes. This website page has lots of useful information pre-trip: berkeleyriverlodge.com.au/about/faq
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