Surprises and splendour at a Scottish landmark

There are ceilings and there are ceilings.

Like most, I’d suspect, the ceilings at my home are typical of the former. They’re functional, thankfully, but fairly bland and featureless.

The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, however, is an example of the latter.

And so, too, is the ceiling of the dining room at Brodie Castle.

Granted, it’s not quite in the same league as Michelangelo’s artistry at the Vatican. But it is a mightily impressive example of Mediterranean flamboyance and craftsmanship, and certainly one you wouldn’t expect to see in the Scottish Highlands.

Admiring this otherworldly carved ceiling — which protrudes with mythical figures representing the four elements of nature — is a highlight of our guided tour at Brodie Castle.

The ancestral home of the Brodie clan for more than 400 years, this salmon-pink painted property was gifted to the National Trust for Scotland by the last resident laird (landowner), Ninian Brodie, in 1978. He lived out his final years in a flat in a wing of the castle that’s now rented out as holiday accommodation.

Dressed in a bow tie and kilt, Ninian is among the Brodies depicted in portraits at this castle, which is located between Inverness and Elgin, and one of the top visitor attractions in Moray Speyside, a region largely known for its whisky distilleries.

In good spirits today is guide Jamie Barron, who leads us around Brodie Castle, taking us from the original tower house — built in the 1560s in a Z-plan defensive style — then through the ornate extensions added in the following centuries.

Some Brodies had a penchant of getting into debt with their budget-busting expansions and embellishments.

There’s a glut of valuable art, antiques and furniture to peruse inside the castle, from Dutch Golden Age paintings and Japanese ceramics to embroidered chaise longues and the 6500 (mostly leather-clad) books in the oak-clad library.

Then there’s that dining room ceiling, which was, says Jamie, crafted by “travelling Mediterranean artisan salesmen”. They did the job in plaster but convincingly made it look like wood.

As well as all the eye-catching objects on permanent display here, the castle has a temporary exhibition space. During our visit, we browse a series of decorative elephant ivory exhibits from South Asia, including a peacock table from Sri Lanka inlaid with timber and ivory.

Some of the Brodies worked for — and earned fortunes with — the East India Company, which drove the British colonisation of the Indian subcontinent.

In the late 18th century, one clan member, James Brodie, had a mansion built in Chennai (Madras), calling it Brodie Castle. Now known as Thendral, it houses that city’s School of Carnatic Music.

After James’ death, his widow, Ann, sailed back to Britain with their seven children. They’re painted in a large portrait by John Opie, one of the top British artists of the Georgian period. This piece hangs in the lounge at Brodie Castle, where a handsome marble fireplace and a glossy piano also piques our attention.

Following a guided tour, you could have drinks and snacks at the castle’s modern cafe or roam around the wider 71ha Brodie estate, which comprises parkland, woods and gardens. While the kids will probably be keen to slide down Scotland’s largest bunny sculpture in the Playful Garden, older generations may be more fascinated by the flowers here.

Ninian Brodie’s father, major Ian, a World War One veteran and the 24th Laird of Brodie, was a prolific breeder of daffodils. He created thousands of hybrids, only 185 of which met his high standards. Other gardeners around the world continued to cultivate his original creations.

Some “Brodie Daffodils” have been found as far afield as the USA and Australia. If you’re visiting Brodie Castle in the northern spring you’ve a chance of seeing more than 100 varieties of daffodil in vivid yellow bloom.

+ Steve McKenna was a guest of Visit Scotland. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication. fact file + Brodie Castle is Brodie, near Forres in Moray, Scotland.

+ The grounds of Brodie Castle are open daily throughout the year, but the castle is usually open for visits between March and November. Admission, including a one-hour guided tour, is £16 ($32) for adults, £14 ($28) concessions and £9 ($4.50) for children. For more information, see nts.org.uk

+ To help plan a trip to Scotland and Britain, see visitscotland.com and visitbritain.com