Beyond Bali — the joys of Java

More than 430,000 West Australians pack their bags and head to Bali every year.

It is our favourite holiday escape — a place of beachside bliss, friendly faces, and the comforting sense of a second home.

Yet for most Bali-bound travellers, the adventure ends right there. Few realise that just across the Bali Strait, a 40-minute ferry ride from Gilimanuk, Bali’s westernmost town, lies Java.

It is Indonesia’s most populous island, and home to more than 130 million people, whose warmth and hospitality are often the highlight of visitors’ trip.

For Perth dad John Spears, his wife “PK” and their 10-year-old daughter Belle, Java had long been a mysterious “someday” destination. But recently the family decided to break the mould, step beyond the familiar, and journey across Java on their own. They weren’t backpackers. They weren’t seeking hardship. They just craved something different.

“There was only one problem,” John laughs.

“Belle had broken her leg a month before. We considered cancelling, but we decided to go anyway and hope that the Javanese people — who we’d heard were incredibly kind — would help us along the way.

“And honestly, they exceeded every expectation.”

Jakarta: big, bold, and surprisingly beautiful

The adventure began with a late-night four-hour flight from Perth, arriving in Jakarta in the early morning.

John admits they were bracing themselves, unsure what to expect.

“Soekarno–Hatta Airport was mind-boggling,” he says. “It’s big, modern, clean, efficient, and the staff were unbelievably helpful with Belle. Any expectation of a run-down third-world airport was shattered in the most delightful way.”

From the airport, a fast freeway carried their taxi into central Jakarta — an hour-long journey that introduces visitors to the capital’s glittering skyline. The family checked into their hotel (Jakarta has many excellent family-friendly options, from international chains in the CBD to boutique stays in the historic Kota Tua district).

“We booked a four-star apartment room for $249 a night for two rooms and a lounge that also included breakfast. Amazing value given that we were located right downtown!” John says.

Over the next three days they settled into life in this energetic megacity and explored some of its standout attractions:

Kota Tua (Old Batavia)

The heart of colonial-era Jakarta, lined with Dutch-inspired buildings, museums, street performers and cafes. The Jakarta History Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts and Ceramics are favourites with families.

Sunda Kelapa Harbour

A short ride from Kota Tua, the old port is home to the legendary phinisi (bugis) wooden trading schooners — majestic vessels still used for inter-island cargo.

“Standing there watching those boats, you feel like you’ve stepped back 200 years,” John says.

National Monument (Monas)

One of Jakarta’s most famous landmarks. Visitors can take a lift to the top for sweeping views of the city.

Grand Indonesia & Plaza Indonesia

Two of South-East Asia’s largest shopping malls — great for catching a movie, finding Western comforts, or enjoying street food-inspired food courts in air-conditioned bliss.

To the family’s surprise, Jakarta was not just manageable — it was fun, easy, and full of extraordinary food. The family sampled sizzling satay, fragrant fried rice, and cooling desserts like es campur. Everywhere they went, strangers greeted them with smiles, and stopped to chat with Belle.

Yogyakarta: Java’s Cultural Soul

After three memorable days, it was time to head to Yogyakarta (often spelled Jogjakarta or simply “Jogja”), the cultural heart of Java, and gateway to the world-famous Borobudur temple.

Travelling by train through Java

“Train travel was a joy,” John explains. “We paid a bit extra to travel first class, and it was worth every cent.”

Across Java, trains are clean, quiet, air-conditioned, and remarkably efficient. First-class passengers enjoy large reclining seats, free wi-fi, refreshments, and calm carriages free from onboard hawkers — a huge relief when travelling with children.

Train tickets can be pre-booked on tiket.com, and the whole system now uses QR codes for boarding, eliminating the need to print anything.

Borobudur: A wonder of the Buddhist world

Arriving in Yogyakarta, the family settled into their hotel and began the pilgrimage to Borobudur — the largest Buddhist temple on Earth.

Built in the 8th and 9th centuries, this enormous stone mandala rises over the Kedu Valley, its terraces covered in intricate carvings depicting Buddhist teachings and Javanese life from 1200 years ago.

“It’s not just big,” John says, “it’s breathtaking. We allowed half a day but could’ve stayed longer.”

Prambanan Temple Complex

While Borobudur steals global headlines, Yogyakarta is also home to Prambanan, Indonesia’s largest Hindu temple complex. Soaring stone spires, lush parklands, and evening cultural performances make Prambanan a perfect complement to Borobudur.

Taman Sari Water Castle

A short distance from the Sultan’s Palace lies Taman Sari — a fascinating 18th-century royal water garden. Once a bathing complex, meditation retreat, and hidden escape for the royal family, the site today is a maze of pools, underground passages, and charming old neighbourhoods.

A city of students, cafes & creativity

Yogyakarta is one of Indonesia’s main university cities, and its youthful energy shows. Streets buzz with food stalls, art galleries, batik workshops, and tiny cafes packed with laughing students tapping on their phones — without a beer bottle in sight.

“Young people here know how to have fun without needing to get drunk,” John says. “It was refreshing, especially with kids around.”

Surabaya: Indonesia’s second city with a big heart

From Yogyakarta, the family hopped aboard for another smooth and scenic train journey — this time to Surabaya, Indonesia’s second-largest city, and one of Asia’s most important trading ports.

Surabaya is vast — larger than Sydney — and combines gleaming skyscrapers with colonial architecture, leafy suburbs, and bustling markets. Highlights for visiting families include:

House of Sampoerna Museum

In a preserved Dutch building, this museum offers a fascinating look at Indonesia’s cigarette-rolling heritage. Visitors can watch skilled workers hand-roll clove cigarettes at incredible speed.

Surabaya Submarine Monument

Kids love exploring this decommissioned Soviet-built submarine stationed in a riverside park.

The Heroes Monument & Museum

A tribute to Indonesia’s struggle for independence, and a great way to understand the nation’s modern history.

Surabaya is also a major transport hub, making it a perfect gateway for the next stage of the journey — either back to Jakarta, onward to Bali, or deeper into East Java’s natural wonders.

Banyuwangi: volcanoes, surfing & the gateway to Bali

The final part of the family’s trip took them to the eastern coastal city of Banyuwangi by train, although the option of a short domestic flight direct to Bali is easily arranged.

Where they stayed

“We checked into The Ketapang,” John explains. “A lovely resort with manicured gardens, villas, good food and a huge pool overlooking the water. Watching the sunset with a cold beer and a view of Bali’s Mount Agung was magic.”

Ijen Crater & the Blue Fire Volcano

Banyuwangi’s star attraction is Kawah Ijen, the world-famous volcano known for its astonishing blue flames —created by ignited sulphuric gases — and its turquoise acidic crater lake. Guided early-morning hikes are popular, though families should check accessibility depending on mobility needs.

Surfing the eastern tip

East Java’s coastline is laced with world-class surf breaks such as G-Land, Red Island, and Boom Beach, drawing Australian surfers since the 1970s.

Back to Bali, easily

The ferry between Banyuwangi, Java and Gilimanuk, Bali runs every hour, is inexpensive, and takes about 40 minutes. From Gilimanuk, the road along Bali’s north-west coastline offers beautiful sea views, fishing villages, monkey-filled forests, and quiet beaches, all the way back to Kuta, Legian, or the airport.

A freeway linking Denpasar and Gilimanuk is being planned, which would reduce travel time to less than 90 minutes — transforming access between Bali and Java and making combined holidays even easier.

A journey filled with kindness

Reflecting on the trip, John says that apart from Java being so close to WA, his strongest memory wasn’t a particular temple or beach, but the people.

“Javanese hospitality is something else,” he says. “They adore kids. They treated Belle like a celebrity everywhere we went. They helped us with her leg, made us laugh, and made us feel safe. I’m already planning our next trip.”

Java is easy. Java is accessible. Java is unforgettable. And for Australian families already comfortable with Bali, it is the most natural next step — a step into a land of culture, kindness, history and adventure; all just waiting next door.

+ Ross Taylor is the founder and former president of the Indonesia Institute in WA.