Amsterdam’s big five

Certain destinations have a sweet spot for tourism — great to visit some months, not so good in others. But a few places warrant sticking on your itinerary whatever time of year you’re planning to be in the vicinity. When it comes to western Europe, Amsterdam is one such place. The peak tourism period here is between April and September, but even during that busy spell, you will find quieter spots in and around the Dutch capital. And notwithstanding the well-attended markets and festivities in the run-up to Christmas, and the weekend city breaks that other Europeans love to take here, October to March tends to be the quieter half of the year to visit (and it’s then you might snap up bargains at Amsterdam’s hotels). Here are five factors that make this a compelling city year-round. WATERWAYS Even if you’ve grown accustomed to sailing — Amsterdam is a key port for River Rhine and ocean cruises — there’s something extra special about drifting along the city’s UNESCO-protected canal ring on a sightseeing cruise. On-board commentary immerses you in the history of these waterways and how they shaped Amsterdam’s prosperity. As you pass by the medieval De Wallen quarter — within which is the city’s most infamous Red Light District — your attention will switch to the grand gabled canal-side merchants’ houses and imposing landmarks funded by the so-called Dutch Golden Age, which saw vast riches flooding into 17th-century Amsterdam through the imperial trade in slaves, spices, sugar and coffee. The canals have a magnetism in all seasons, but from September to December, especially on sunny days, there’s an added beauty as the waters reflect the fiery hues in the changing leaves on the canal paths. If you’re here after this, you might get the odd brief cold snap when the canals freeze over and a few brave Amsterdammers dust down their ice skates.

MUSEUMS Whether you’re seeking warmth on a chilly day or shade from a summer heatwave, Amsterdam’s museums are a tempting option. The general rule to avoid spending ages in queues is to pre-book a ticket online (most also provide dedicated time slots). Two of the city’s most popular places are a stone’s throw from the canals: the Rembrandt House Museum, where the Dutch painter lived and had a studio between 1639 and 1658, and Anne Frank House, where, three centuries later, the young Jewish girl penned her diary during the city’s Nazi occupation. Down by Amsterdam’s harbour, occupying a former naval storehouse, the National Maritime Museum is packed with nautical exhibits, while the city’s biggest cluster of museums pepper the aptly-named Museumkwartier (Museum Quarter) just south of the central canal belt. You could easily spend a day here, hopping between the Van Gogh Museum (home to the world’s largest collection of works by the Dutch Post-Impressionist), the Stedelijk Museum, which showcases modern and contemporary stars like Andy Warhol, Piet Mondrian and Jeff Koons, and the Rijksmuseum, where over 800 years of Dutch history are explored through artworks like The Milkmaid by Johannes Vermeer and The Night Watch by Rembrandt. REFRESHMENTS It may no longer be the hub of a global empire, but Amsterdam remains a cosmopolitan melting pot of languages, tipples and recipes. As well as Dutch “classics” like stroopwafels and fries with mayo-like fritessaus, you can enjoy fine dining and smart-casual eateries that fashion dishes with sustainably-sourced Dutch meat, fish and seafood. Several acclaimed restaurants, including Michelin-rated duo Bolenius and De Kas, grow their own vegetables in urban gardens and greenhouses. Across Amsterdam, you can also savour flavours from former Dutch colonies like Indonesia and Suriname or spicy fare by more recent immigrants from north Africa and the Middle East. Tantalising aromas float from the produce stalls, cheesemongers and street food vendors at Albert Cuypmarkt, a sprawling market that’s open daily, except Sundays, in the De Pijp neighbourhood between the Museumkwartier and the River Amstel. Amsterdam has long been notorious for its marijuana-stoked “coffeeshops” but if you’re after a proper caffeine hit, you’ll find an increasing number of cafes serving decent flat whites and the like. Try Black Gold, a speciality coffee store that also sells vinyls and runs art events (it’s a five-minute walk from the Rembrandt House Museum). If you fancy a cosy old-school ambience, a good bet are the city’s characterful bruine kroegen (brown pubs), which are known as such because of their dark wooden interiors and well-worn furniture. Expect typical Dutch beers and drinks like genever, a Dutch spirit that predates gin, and snacks like bitterballen (deep-fried breaded beef balls). Try Cafe Chris and Cafe Sonneveld — both in Jordaan, a canal-side enclave close to Anne Frank House and also renowned for its trendy vintage fashion stores. FESTIVALS Amsterdam has a vibrant cultural calendar for 12 months, so there’s always likely to be something to pique your interest. The darker months are illuminated by the pre-Christmas markets and Sinterklaas parades and a light festival (late November to mid January) brings an added glow with art installations mushrooming around the central canal district. Spring sparks a sensational colour palette as millions of trees and flowers bloom in and around Amsterdam. Tulips are the focal point with a city-wide flower festival that reaches its zenith in April when tulips colour almost 100 locations within Amsterdam. You’ll see them fringing pavements and squares as well as green spaces like the Hortus Botanicus — founded in 1638, one of the world’s oldest botanical gardens — and the Vondelpark, which also comes into its own in summer when it hosts open-air concerts and theatre. Running throughout June, the Holland Festival is a treat for creative souls with opera, dance, film, comedy and visual arts staged across multiple Amsterdam venues. In July, the Kwaku Summer Festival celebrates the city’s cultural and sporting diversity. It’s held in Nelson Mandelapark, a football’s kick from the Johan Cruijff Arena, the home of Ajax, one of Europe’s most celebrated soccer clubs. You can watch matches there between August and May and take stadium tours year-round. ADVENTURES If the centre of Amsterdam feels too cluttered with trams, bikes and tourists, divert to the outlying districts where there’s less traffic but still plenty to pull over for. While the city is usually a pleasure to discover on foot, you’ll cover more ground — and really go Dutch — by hiring some wheels. There are 400-plus kilometres of predominantly flat cycle paths, which hardy Amsterdammers use throughout the year. Venturing south of the city, the Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest) is a leafy 1000ha escape woven with trails, canals, ponds and picnic spots. If you’re here in April, seek out the vivid hues of the Bloesempark, a pocket of the forest flaunting over 400 cherry trees — a gift from Dutch-based Japanese. A totally different place to pedal around is Amsterdam-Noord, where you’ll find picturesque low-rise streets, hip and happening post-industrial zones and canoeable wetlands. Pull in at NDSM, a huge repurposed shipyard where quirky murals backdrop yoga classes, organic eateries, groovy bars and DJ-fuelled clubs. You can ride the Metro to Amsterdam-Noord, but the most scenic way is on a ferry that crosses the River IJ from behind Centraal Station. The journey is free and you can even bring a bike on board.

fact file + To help plan a trip to Amsterdam and the Netherlands, see iamsterdam.com and holland.com.