It’s my first visit to Vietnam, and I’m surprised to see that they drive on the right-hand side of the road here. I’ve holidayed in Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia and Hong Kong before, where they drive on the left, and without giving it a great deal of thought, I had assumed it would be the case here.

Of course, the Portuguese and the French were the first Europeans to have influence on this South-East Asian country so, had I given it more thought, it would have been obvious they would favour the right-hand side of the road.

Thankfully, I don’t have to worry about driving on the “opposite side” as I’m sitting in the back of a very comfortable Mercedes, being chauffeur-driven to my destination, the InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort on the Son Tra Peninsula, 40 minutes from Da Nang International Airport.

I’m glad I’m not driving. There are multiple lanes chock-a-block with mopeds, and on first appearances, it’s chaos. However, with a closer look, I decide it’s organised chaos. The locals clearly know the routine and my chauffeur adeptly navigates multiple lanes, weaving in and out as scooter riders slow down to accommodate him.

I’m fascinated as I watch the choreography of motorbikes crisscrossing junctions, weaving through roundabouts and smoothly slowing down to let fellow riders merge, giving polite toots of horns to make other drivers aware of their presence. The traffic flows like water. It’s positively balletic.

There are people of all ages, some in casual attire, others in suits. I spot a very well-dressed woman passenger, sitting side-saddle on a scooter, primly holding her handbag with two hands. Another bike has a giant square rack attached either side of the seat, laden with hundreds of hats.

Soon we are out of the chaos and reach the coast. The pristine sands of Da Nang’s beaches stretching as far as the eye can see. Turquoise water sparkling in the sunlight.

Skyscraping big-brand hotels overlook the ocean while traditional fishing boats bob on the water and line the shore. As we wind our way up the mountain, the towering white Lady Buddha statue comes into sight.

And then a barrier fence topped with monkey statues hints that we are close to the resort. The Son Tra Peninsula is also known as Monkey Mountain.

The nature reserve is home to the endangered, red-shanked douc langur. Son Tra houses the world’s largest population of these striking red-legged, orange-faced, white-bearded primates and, if you are lucky, you can see them feeding in the tree canopy around the resort.

The chauffeur drops me off at reception. I’m welcomed by staff and wowed by the view . . .

GRANDER THAN GRAND

To say the InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort is grand would be an understatement. The lobby is dramatic, its black lacquered wood contrasting with pristine white walls. Giant fretwork panels and ornate pillars tower above me and vases of delicate orchids soften the monochromatic colour scheme.

The resort was designed by renowned architect and artist Bill Bensley, whose creative genius has brought to life more than 200 resorts and hotels in more than 30 countries.

With architecture inspired by the ancient temples, historical structures and natural landscapes of Vietnam, the opulent, yet whimsical, five-star resort is nestled in 39ha of rainforest, set over four levels — Heaven, Sky, Earth and Sea.

Guests can visit each level by taking the Nam Tram, a funicular train which makes its way up and down the forested slopes. If you can handle the humidity, you can walk the winding paths that meander through each level.

There are also buggies on hand if you would like to be delivered to your door. A smiling member of staff drives me to my accommodation.

“Welcome to heaven,” he declares as he swings open the door to my Terrace Suite Panoramic Oceanview room.

And he’s right, in more ways than one.

The hotel’s dramatic black and white colour scheme continues throughout the 80sqm room. It features high ceilings, panoramic windows, ornate traditional furniture and luxurious soft furnishings. The Bensley touch is obvious here with playful accessories such as colourful embroidered fringed lampshades on lamp stands adorned with brass parrots, bright yellow rugs featuring monkeys and tropical flowers, and even a life-sized ornamental ostrich looking out from behind the oversized stone bathtub.

The bathroom is spectacular — from the view over the peninsula from the bath, the open-plan rain shower and double vanity, to the Diptyque toiletries, Dyson hairdryer and abundance of mirrors. And then there’s the cascade of white orchids, quirky yellow bird ornaments and another monkey rug — it’s the perfect mix of function and whimsy.

I head out to the large terrace, which has a magnificent view of the verdant mountainside, and the golden sands and turquoise sea of the palm-fringed beach below. Heavenly indeed.

I’m advised to double lock the sliding door from the terrace to the bedroom as the peninsula is home to macaques who have figured out how to open the door if it’s left unlocked . . .

THE BOLD & THE RESTFUL

The douc langurs are a shy lot and are unlikely to venture onto the terraces, but the macaques are more inquisitive, so I’m also told it is important guests don’t feed or interact with the monkeys to help maintain their health and natural instincts.

The resort prioritises wildlife conservation and has been actively involved in preserving the rainforest on the peninsula. Buildings were nestled into the land’s contours to ensure minimal disruption to native flora and fauna. As few trees as possible were cut down during construction and any trees that were removed were replaced.

On top of that, the resident naturalist leads daily educational nature tours for guests and monkey bridges have been built in several trees across the resort, enabling primates to travel between habitats more safely and with less disruption from guests.

Before the resort was built in 2012 it was thought there were only 200 remaining doucs on the peninsula. Today there are about 1300, so the care with conservation seems to be paying off.

But not only is care taken with the monkeys, the guests are well looked after too. I think it would be hard to find more helpful or happy hotel staff. I’m glad I practised the phrase xin chao (pronounce it sin chow) before I arrived. There are more than 600 members of staff in this 189-room resort and each one I see cheerfully greets me with the Vietnamese word for hello and a wide smile.

I take the Nam Tram to Sea level to check out the resort’s pools. The first is a family pool, but I have it all to myself. It sits just behind the beach; tall palm trees reflect in the infinity pool’s glassy surface.

I find a sunbed under a parasol. Before I’ve made a move to sit down, I hear a “xin chao” and I’m handed two beach towels and a cool bag filled with two icy-cold face cloths and two cans of chilled water. It’s no exaggeration to say the staff seem to anticipate your every need.

After dinner I return to my room where a turn-down service has left it immaculate again. I drift off to sleep on a cloud-like bed and pillows, and to the gentle nocturnal noises of nature outside.

I awake early to a chorus of cicadas and step out on to the terrace to watch dawn break over the bay. Listening to the sounds of wildlife waking is a lovely way to ease into the day . . .

RELAX & RECHARGE

After breakfast I take a self-guided design tour around the resort. I download the map on my phone and while away the morning delving into the creative mind of Bill Bensley, enjoying the views along the way.

The afternoon is spent at the Long Pool. The 50m infinity pool has panoramic views over the resort and the bay. On arrival, I’m given beach towels, chilled face cloths and water, which are replenished without asking later in the afternoon.

A chance to relax and recharge, with soothing birdsong and idyllic scenery — palm tree fronds wave gently in the breeze, the resort’s beautiful architecture nestled in the green mountains, blue sky softened with white fluffy clouds. This is the life.

I hear a rustle in the trees close by — this could be the doucs. My eyes are drawn to the tree line and after a few minutes I see two of them sitting in the branches, eating the leaves. They are gorgeous creatures, their little orange faces look like painted masks.

A few minutes pass and I see one of the doucs make its way slowly towards the edge of the pool where it lies prone for a minute or two then hops back up the tree. I can’t figure out what it was doing, but then the second one hops down. This time it sits in the channel between wall and pool and gingerly puts its face towards the water that cascades over the side. It’s taking a drink. It sips for a second, brings its head back, wipes its mouth then goes in for another sip.

The pool attendant comes over and I tell him what I have seen. He’s surprised, these monkeys are leaf eaters and usually will get enough water from the rain and dew that collects on the leaves. But he tells me it’s heading into the hot season here and water must be scarce. Luckily the pool water is carefully treated to make sure the chemicals aren’t harmful to the local wildlife.

But I think I’ve been lucky to see two of these primates up so close. It seems this was an unusual occurrence, as everyone I told said they aren’t usually so confident near the ground.

It’s tempting to stay in the resort. The peaceful backdrop, luxurious surrounds and choice of dining options mean I have very little desire to venture further afield. But this is my first visit to Vietnam, so the following day I tear myself away for an afternoon to explore Hoi An, which is an hour away.

ACTIVITIES FAR & NEAR

The resort runs a daily shuttle to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed city. It’s worth making the trip. Inside its old town you will find a blend of Japanese, Chinese and French colonial architecture.

The old town’s picturesque streets are filled with bougainvillea-clad yellow heritage shophouses selling souvenirs, leather goods, silk lanterns, custom-tailored clothes and artisan goods. Pop into one of the many coffee shops for a Vietnamese salt coffee — the strong, sweet and salty iced drink is my new obsession. You can take a lantern-boat ride on the river at sunset, but be prepared to put up with the crowds, it’s a popular pursuit. I’ve heard it’s quieter earlier in the day.

There are other places of interest within a short drive of the resort, including Da Nang city centre, Lady Buddha and temple complex and Marble Mountain. The concierge can book you tickets for the Heritage Train from Da Nang to Hue. Go both for the scenic ride (it takes about 3-3.5 hours each way) and to explore the historic Citadel.

But honestly, there’s so much to see and do at the resort, I’m content to mostly stay put.

There’s a full daily schedule of activities to choose from, including yoga, meditation, massage workshops, snorkelling and fishing, cooking or coffee classes and nature tours.

Mi Sol Spa is a luxurious affair. I try the Blissful Marma massage which is based around Ayurvedic marma therapy and makes use of the vibrations from the spa’s signature tuning forks to balance the bodies chakras. And blissful it is, too.

THE WORLD OF TASTES

I have Club Lounge access so divide breakfasts between there and the main restaurant, Citron. There’s a surprisingly extensive selection to choose from at the Club Lounge, whether it be buffet-style or off the a la carte menu.

At Citron the world’s my oyster with something to satisfy most tastes available from the buffet. I enjoy an excellent bowl of fragrant chicken pho — the classic Vietnamese breakfast — and finish with a plate of perfectly ripe mango, dragon fruit and pineapple.

A la carte lunch and dinner is served at Citron, and I would not get bored of the Vietnamese-focused menus here. But the other dining venues are also excellent.

La Maison 1888, Central Vietnam’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, blends French techniques with creative modern flair. Chef Christian Le Squer’s signature dish, spaghetti debout en gratin is spaghetti, but not as I know it. Strands of handmade bucatini are placed vertically inside a rectangular mould filled with a luxurious black truffle and mushroom cream, spiked with salty cubes of tender ham. The flavour combination is comforting; the execution is refined.

On Sea level, Terra Mare overlooks the ocean and serves excellent and authentic Italian fare, while Tingara offers elevated Japanese fine-dining.

My final dinner is in The Long Bar which is more casual, but the dishes are no less delicious. We dine sitting on giant day beds, cooled down by the punkah fans swinging above.

A FOND FAREWELL

I’m not ready to leave here. It really has been heaven, I think, as I’m lulled to sleep by nature’s nighttime calls, one last time.

I have time for breakfast in the Club Lounge before the car arrives to take me to the airport the following morning. A final bowl of fragrant pho, a plate of tropical fruit and one last salted coffee while I savour the view over the bay.

And now, regretfully, the car arrives and it’s time for me to depart heaven and come back down to earth.

+ Leyanne Baillie was a guest of InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication.

fact file

One night in a Resort Classic Room Oceanview starts from $US471 ($683) and a Club Terrace Suite Panoramic Oceanview from $US671 ($973). See danang.intercontinental.com for full details.

If you want to arrive in style, the resort’s private transfers from Da Nang airport start from VND 2,899,000 one way ($159.45) and include an English-speaking driver, bottled water, and wi-fi.