A flavour-filled slice of Paris

With its graceful architecture and showstopping icons, Paris is one of the planet’s most rewarding cities to navigate on foot.

And being Europe’s most densely populated capital means you’re rarely far from somewhere to eat, drink and shop.

Sometimes — OK, quite often — you’ll stumble across streets that are both picturesque and spoiled with retail and refreshment possibilities.

Today I’m in the Marais (“The Marsh” in French), a district on the once-swampy Right Bank of the River Seine.

Unlike vast swathes of Paris, which were transformed in the 1800s with new, wide boulevards and grandiose medium-rise apartment blocks, the Marais has retained more of its medieval street plan. As a result, the streets tend to be narrower and the buildings generally older, lower-rise and quainter.

Some private mansions — known as “hotels particuliers” — date from the 17th century, when this emerged as a fashionable area for aristocrats. Stretching between the river and Place de la Republique, the Marais is a fine place for a stroll and one of its liveliest and most intriguing parts is in and around the Marche des Enfants Rouges.

First opened in 1615, touted as the oldest covered market in Paris, it takes its name (Market of the Red Children) from a neighbourhood orphanage where children were dressed in red clothing.

Unlike certain Parisian markets, which unfurl across entire squares or occupy glamorous Belle Epoque buildings, Marche des Enfants Rouges has an unassuming appearance and you could easily walk past it. Its main entrances are on Rue de Bretagne and Rue Charlot (a pair of streets, incidentally, whose cafe, bistro and brasserie terraces are abuzz with mostly French chatter on this summer’s afternoon).

Full of sizzling smells and conversations, the market is also pretty busy, but there are still a few vacant benches, tables and stools by the vendors that trade here and specialise in French, Middle Eastern, Caribbean, Italian and Asian fare.

I see people — young, middle-aged and elderly — variously feasting on oysters and seafood platters, rotisserie chickens, crepes, couscous, tagines, ramen and bento boxes.

On a nice day like today, you may fancy bagging up ingredients to take away for a picnic, perhaps at Square du Temple, an attractive garden square by the Le Carreau du Temple, an events hub in a 19th century steel-and-glass market building.

Further away, about 15 minutes on foot, is Place des Vosges, Paris’ oldest planned square (an alternative if you’re looking to sit down on the grass).

You’ll rub shoulders with locals doing their grocery shopping at Marche des Enfants Rouges, where you can buy freshly baked bread and choose from a range of French cheeses, jams and charcuterie, as well as fruits, vegetables and flowers.

Open daily (except Mondays), the market isn’t the only address to seek out in the Marais (which covers much of Paris’ 3rd arrondissement). It’s a seven-minute walk from the Musee Picasso, which has pieces from the legendary Spanish-born artist plus exhibitions by modern and contemporary creatives.

While that incurs an admission charge, free to enter is the terrific Musee Carnavalet, which traces the evolution of Paris in two Renaissance-era mansions crammed with exhibits.

If you prefer your history in the form of a guided walk or bike ride, several operators lead tours around the Marais, taking you to the likes of rue des Rosiers, the heart of the city’s historic Jewish quarter, where kosher delis and restaurants do a thriving business, enticing passers-by with falafels and other flavoursome dishes.

Another thing about the Marais is the offbeat street art. Several buildings in this district sport the pixelated mosaics of Invader, one of Paris’ top street artists.

Glance up as you explore and you may see his portrayals of pop-culture figures and characters from 1980s movies and video games.

fact file + To help plan a trip to Paris and France, see parisjetaime.com and france.fr