The Embassy review: Epic and elegant, The Embassy by Devlin’s makes gallant debut on Rokeby Road

With distinctive purple orchids cascading down from its canopy, The Embassy by Devlin’s arrived on Rokeby Road earlier this year with a self-assured and alluring presence. The first time I’d been was not long after it opened in March for a bottle of pink Idee Fixe — a dear favourite from Vasse Felix and a tremendous value local fizz — to celebrate a giddy day spent wedding dress shopping. But I have been desperately keen to go back since to get a feel for what this swanky joint is really all about. Tottering up Rokeby’s gentle incline taking in a buzzy autumnal Friday, one just has a hunch this spot is exactly the right place to be spending the evening. The Embassy’s calling card is that it’s “a place you will always feel home” and there’s a cheeky nod on the website to a Mr J Assange … that’s one customer who probably won’t be in a rush to book a table. Under the orchids and across the threshold there’s a warm ambience and interior feast honouring the century-old building. Art deco wallpaper, a bit of exposed brick, sumptuous cinder orange booths and armchairs, wooden floorboards, a group of fabulous ladies chatting away … is that a tree in the middle of the restaurant? An ultra welcoming host, who I later learn is founder Teresa Klenk, greets us and sets the high standard of polished, attentive and engaging service that’s to follow. Feeling suitably fussed over and shown to a seat with pleasingly generous lumbar support, I simply must order the signature Diplomatic Immunity cocktail, tres on theme. My poker-obsessed dining partner opts for the Full House. As a bitters-based mix the signature is stiff and quite serious, but there’s enough apricot to lighten things up and make it a fairly easy-drinker. Presentation is chic too, with a big ice block and short ribbed glass. There’s some serious thought gone into building this atmosphere, and it’s a treat to start hearing the tinkling of some Erik Satie on the ivories round the corner. What a difference live music makes to a dining experience. Cosy alcoves for couples and booths for a merry crowd, there’s a pleasantly eclectic mix of diners. The menu sits under the umbrella term of modern Australian, with solid produce doing the talking. Steaks, priced from $48 upwards — all the way upwards — and sides comprise the bulk of options for mains, as well as pairs of seafood, pasta and signature dishes. From a good range of starters we’ve elected the burrata and stone fruit, $26, a couple of shark bay scallops, $12 each, and the sourdough and tallow butter, $14. We didn’t partake, but I do think they’re onto something with ultra-trendy caviar bumps at $19. Our waitress — who again, it must be said has been chatty and engaging — lets us know the classic stone fruit and pickled shallot pairing on the burrata has been subbed out for a more seasonal combination of pomegranate, persimmon and watercress. The crimson jewels have been meticulously removed of any white flesh and look fabulous sprinkled on this well executed, simple starting dish. The slightly charred persimmon is a nice touch and transitions what is quite a summery combo to a more autumnal palette in colours and taste. A trusty imperfect sphere of salty and creamy La Delizia burrata oozes onto the fresh fruit. The sourdough slices are absolute doorstoppers, warm and very fresh. There’s not the usual tedious chewy factor with this sourdough either; it’s a lot crustier and one doesn’t feel like they’re wrestling to pull apart a slice. Some simple salted butter would have been fab on its own. But the tallow is a lovely extra layer of savoury indulgence, notched up even further by the fact it’s whipped and easy to slather. Another simple entree levelled up and nailed. A pair of scallops have been served beautifully within their fan half shells, garnished with a golden thyme and lemon sourdough crumb and garlic butter. The citrus shines through the crunch of the garlic starting to caramelise, and the scallop has just the right amount of squidge. Marvellous seafood. The pianist has switched from Chopin to a rendition of Moon River, and has been thoughtfully interweaving his melodies that allow low, intimate conversations among couples without dulling spirited banter among tables of friends and families. The Embassy is certainly an upscale venue — in price, service and ambience — but there’s not that stuffiness that sometimes comes with a fine-dining joint. The Embassy delivers that sense of occasion but without being uncomfortably formal. For the main event I’ve landed on the Willow Bend lamb and black garlic ($65), my dining partner the New York strip ($69), or sirloin with a couple of sides. As promised there is some serious marbling on the lamb, the cook on which has been left to head chef Charlie Vargas and looks a solid medium-rare. It’s stunningly rich and tender, the instantly distinguishable lamb flavour is gamey, grounding and totally delicious. There is a bit of fat to work with here so fussy eaters do beware, but the less fickle will appreciate just how well the dish honours the whole cut. There is one hunk that I don’t fancy going at for five minutes; the rest melts away beautifully on eating. Because I’m English and mint sauce to me comes in a jar on the table next to the gravy, I’m initially a bit wary of the chunkier chimichurri style of the one atop the lamb. Totally unfounded. The fresh and chunky chopped mint and bitey vinegar are in total harmony, cradled by the lamb’s earthy yin, delivering a stellar take on the classic pairing. A third element, the black garlic emulsion, turns up the dial of the dish yet again. It’s pared right back from the usual bright and spice of garlic to be far more subtle and understated. A side of heirloom carrots are sweet and cooked exactly how you’d want them, still a soft bite through the centre, and served on a spread of creamy goats curd. The potato pave is a nice height and well-structured with a pleasing crust on the outer. Layers of potato are soft and comforting, a great supporting act. The parsley sauce atop is a little overpowering. It’s damn hard to find any fault with the steak. It’s been attentively sealed on a good heat to deliver some char on the outer, encasing a succulent and gently springy medium-rare flesh. The 350g was happily reported as a “sufficient portion” for x1 hungry male, with sides and starters of course. Great touch by having waitstaff offer choices of mustards and horseradish. Peppercorns for the accompanying namesake sauce had to be dug out from the bottom of the ramekin and were maybe a little short on the piperine buzz one might be chasing, but flavoursome and plenty for dipping nonetheless. By now the promise of The Embassy’s much-vaunted New York-style cheesecake is tempting. It’s a whopping slice — smooth vanilla, packing an ultra tangy punch and a lovely thin base, served with a plum puree. Undeniably tasty. And if we hadn’t gathered what kind of gaff The Embassy is by now, cigar purveyor and the owner’s husband Simon Devlin is demonstrating (safely, of course) to another table how to open a bottle of champagne with a sabre. Cheers. The verdict: 18/20 Epic and elegant upscale restaurant with uber-polished service flogging masterfully executed stellar produce. Perfect for a special occasion, or not. The restaurant Subiaco has been crying out for. The Embassy by Devlin’s 87 Rokeby Road, Subiaco Open: Tuesday to Saturday, 12pm — 10pm Contact: 9217 0222 Bookings: Yes